الجمعة، 10 يناير 2014

Sheep Behaviour and Welfare





Origins

Domestication of sheep started some11,000 years ago to produce an animal that was more docile and more flexible than the wild sheep to fit man's needs.
Sheep proved to be very adaptable to a wide range of environments.
After domestication, they spread across many continents and developed into a range of types.
They are found from cold continental areas, in dry deserts, and right through to the tropics.

Uses for sheep:

Meat
Wool - clothing
Skins - clothing, footwear, housing and saddles
Milk - cheese
Animal fat
Offal - wide range of products and pharmaceuticals
Companions - pets

Modern sheep problems

World sheep populations tend to be on the decrease for a number of reasons such as:

Wool garments and carpets have gone out of fashion.
The demand for wool is low, resulting in world surplus.
Sheep have too many predators that are protected by environmentalists.
Sheep meat is not eaten by many nations in the world.
NZ sheep population dropped from 70 million in the 1980s to 47 million today. It is not likely to increase rapidly in the near future.

Sheep senses

Sight

Sheep have generally very good vision.
The position of their eye allows for wide peripheral vision as they can span some 145 with each eye.
Binocular vision is much narrower - 40 wide. They have no vision 2-3cm immediately in front of the nose.
After locating a threat in their peripheral vision, they turn to examine it with binocular vision.
They have a blind spot at the rear around 70 which is wider than the cow and is useful when catching sheep.
Sheep tracks are never straight as sheep continually turn to watch behind them.
They have colour vision but it's not as well developed as in humans.
They often react in fear to novel colours that they're not used to, e.g. yellow raingear.
Sheep remember flock mates for very long periods (years) after separation.

Smell

Sheep have a good sense of smell and will not eat mouldy or musty feed.
Smell is a major factor in rams locating ewes in heat.
Smell is also vital in lamb identification by the dam associated with sight recognition.
Sheep are very sensitive to predator smells.

Hearing

Sheep have acute hearing and they can direct their ears to the direction of the sound.

Social order

Sheep are the classical social "flocking" animal and are a "follower species".
They use the flock for a defence against predators - running away a short distance to form a flock and then turning round to face the predator. On closer approach by the threat, they scatter and regroup.
Social ranking is not as obvious in sheep as in other species. Normally you'll see very few confrontations among ewes without young lambs to fight over.
Sheep work out a social order by head butting, nudging, poking with horns, shoulder pushing, blocking and mounting. This is seen most clearly in horned rams (American wild mountain sheep) that back off then charge, meeting head to head with a large bang.
Horned and polled rams should not be mixed as the horned rams will break the others' neck.
Submissive behaviours in sheep include lowering of the head and neck and moving away with a head shake.
In wild sheep a dominant ram leads a small flock followed by females, juveniles and lambs. He establishes this as a harem of about a dozen ewes.
Rams can form harems in farmed flocks in large hill country paddocks where they can easily get separated from main flock. Regular mustering is needed to prevent this.
In wild sheep, a lamb will stay with its dam till the next lamb is born. Both sexes will stay in their family groups till the adolescent males take off.
In farmed flocks you don't see much evidence of social order, as regular mustering and movement prevent much of it.
In groups of rams, especially Merinos in hot climates with no shade, they stand in a tight pack creating shade for each other.
The Merino packs especially tightly when being handled and once in a tight circular mob, you have to get a leader to spin off somewhere and act as leader to get some movement.
This leader sheep is not of high social rank - it's the first one who thinks they can escape. Pressure from barking dogs just makes the pack tighter, and if you are in the middle of this crush, you can feel the physical pressure that can lead to a smother.
Merinos need room to move and hate hassle. They have different behaviour to other farmed breeds.
Lambs are noted for their play behaviour - "follow the leader" and "king of the castle". It's said to be an indication of intelligence level and using this behaviour, sheep would rank higher than any other ungulate.

Feeding

Sheep are ruminants and they start nibbling pasture from about a week old. They are efficient ruminants by about a month old.
Sheep can graze more closely than cattle as they have a split upper lip.
They graze for about 8-9 hours/day, which can extend to 13 hours when feed is short.
Grazing bouts (when feed is plentiful) are about 20 -90 minutes, and they can have as many as 9 of them in 24 hours.
After a grazing bout they have spells of 45-90 minutes of rumination and rest.
In open range sheep have preferred areas and stick to these. This is seen in the UK "hefting" system in unfenced mountain grazings.
A major concern in the UK Foot and Mouth disaster was how to replace these sheep after slaughter as they would have to learn this behaviour all again.
Mixed grazing by cattle and sheep is ideal to maintain a good close pasture, and sheep adapt to this without any behavioural problems.
The condition of a sheep's teeth is critical, and can have a big effect on behaviour.
Sheep learn from their mothers which feed to eat. South Island sheep will eat grain and hay as they learn from their mothers in spring. North Island sheep will generally not eat grain or hay as they are never offered it, except in serious feed shortages such as droughts.
It often takes 2-3 weeks for sheep to learn as mature animals, and some may never accept supplementary feed and starve. Sheep also learn to eat different feeds from other adults or their peers.
Sheep store surplus energy as fat inside the body cavity (e.g. kidney fat and around the intestines) and under the skin. They use this up during late pregnancy and lactation for lamb growth and milk production.
About 3-4 weeks before mating ewes are given extra feed to encourage extra eggs to be shed from the ovary, ending in more lambs produced. This is called "flushing".
Sheep kept indoors show stress by eating the wood of their pens and they will also eat their wool, or the wool of the sheep in the next pen.
This wool eating is seen is sheep that have been buried in deep snow for up to three weeks.
Sheep need water - about 4litres/day/adult sheep and 1 litre/day for a lamb. But they can adapt to severe drought conditions and extract enough moisture to survive from herbage. The Australian outback Merino shows this important behavioural trait best.

The ewe

Sheep are seasonal breeders and ewes are stimulated to cycle by the declining daylight pattern in autumn.
Female sheep reach puberty at about 6 months old, depending on breed and live weight.
Only about 20% of farmers mate their ewe lambs and there is no problem getting these hoggets to come on heat if they have been well fed, and are a minimum of 35-40kg by 6-7 months old.
Ewes come on heat every 17 days (14-20 days range) and will be on heat for about 4-8 hours.
Pregnancy in the ewe is five months (154 days)

Signs of oestrus in the ewe

These are not very obvious compared to cattle. Here are some:

The ewe will seek out a ram.
She will sniff him and chase after him.
She will crouch and urinate when a ram sniffs her side or genital area.
She will fan her tail when the ram sniffs her.
When the ram is preparing to mount, she will turn her head to look at him.
Ewes do not mount other ewes as in cattle.

The ram

Rams reach puberty by about 6 months of age, but beware of younger ram lambs that miss docking as they could easily be fertile by autumn.
Rams are most active in the autumn and are stimulated by declining daylight. They show a kind of "rut", but nothing as well developed as seen in goats or deer.
They start to smell very strongly like a Billy goat approaching mating and the bare skin around their eyes and on their underside around front legs and crutch turns pink.
This smell comes from the grease in the wool and contains a pheromone that stimulates the ewes to ovulate.
Rams with high libido may not be fertile so fertility can be checked by a semen test using electro-ejaculation. This does not deliver the same quality of sperm as a good strong natural ejaculation but it is an indicator.
To avoid problems, farmers usually change rams after each cycle to lessen the risk of a ram being a dud.
Counting the number of mounts on a restrained ewe over time can also indicate libido, but seek veterinary advice on the ethics of this practice.
It's wise to use an older experienced ram on young ewes and a young ram on older experience ewes.
But some farmers argue the opposite and reckon the extra libido of young rams stimulated the young ewes better.
As rams are reared in homosexual groups, they may take time to learn how to mate females correctly.
Take time to watch new rams working to make sure they are serving correctly into the vagina and ejaculating. In a good ejaculation the ram will thrust forward with all four feet off the ground.
Courting behaviour is made up of a lot of "sniff hunting" ewes. Rams approach a ewe often from side, pawing her side with his head low, rattling his tongue and giving a low bleating.
Mating ratios of 1 ram to 40-50 ewes is normal but a good fit ram will easily mate 100 ewes. Ram lambs that are large enough (30-40kg) are given 30 ewes.
Having a surplus of rams in the flock may be a good insurance against infertility but they will spend more time fighting and establishing dominance and may miss ewes on heat. Fighting also leads to injuries which rarely recover before the end of mating, so an expensive ram is often a write off.
In large mobs where many rams are used, the dominant rams do most of the mating, chasing the less-dominant away. Practice makes perfect, so these dominant rams, getting more practice do the job quicker and so get more work.
The subordinate ram may get a service when the dominant one has moved away to find more fresh ewes, or with ewes that have come to him and are waiting. But it's just his luck if by the time it's his turn, the ewe is starting to go off heat and won't stand.
Rams can be racists - in mixed-breed groups they often show a preference to mate ewes of their own breed.

The "ram effect"

It's an old practice to use the sight and smell of a ram to stimulate ewes to cycle. It's called "the ram effect".
To exploit it ewes are first isolated from sight, sound and smell of all rams for at least 2-3 weeks before joining.
Then both sexes are put in adjoining paddocks to view and smell each other through the fence.
After about 4 days the gate is opened between them and they are joined.
This practice is sometimes done using teaser (vasectomised) rams that are actually put in with the ewes for even close contact and serving.
Teasers lose their libido over time and young entire rams seem to have more stimulating power through the fence. The little bit of extra frustration seems to help.

Lambing

Ewe behaviour prior to lambing

A few hours before lambing, a ewe will move away from the main flock to find a quiet birth site.
Particular areas of lambing paddocks such as hollows or hill tops can be very popular spots and many lamb mix-ups and mismothering can happen here.
It may be necessary to fence these areas off after a while when they get muddy. This will avoid a great deal of extra work and frustration for the shepherd.
Ewes heavy in lamb become very quiet and near lambing are more vigilant and graze less. This restlessness lasts until the ewe finally selects a birth site.

On the birth site:

The ewe paws the ground.
She keeps turning round and round.
She lies down and gets up a lot.
Her waters burst and she gets up to smell the ground where it fell.
Then after labour contractions the lambs will be born.
The ewe then gets up and licks the lambs.
The lamb may be finally delivered with the ewe standing.
The ewe produces the afterbirth.
She will remain on the site till the lambs have suckled.
Ewes vary in the time they spend on the birth site.
Old experienced ewes will move off as soon as the lambs have suckled and can move with her.

These ewes with good maternal instincts and experience seem to be able to count and will not leave their lambs behind - going back to gather up stray twins or triplets. They stand with head down giving a low bleat and constantly nuzzling the lambs.
Younger ewes with no previous experience will stay longer on the birth site, as they have the novelty of a lamb to deal with. If disturbed then these sheep panic more easily leading to lamb neglect.
It's good practice to leave newly lambed ewes alone on their birth site, and only move them after a couple of days when they have clearly bonded and moved off to another area of the paddock themselves.
Shifting ewes or lambs in the middle of the birth process is a disaster and will lead to mismothering of lambs.
It's a good idea to spot mark multiples at birth and then leave them alone. This helps to ensure correct mothering later.

Burglar ewes

Often a ewe that has not lambed will steal a lamb from a newly-lambed ewe as her maternal instincts have got out of phase.
She can cause enormous disruption in a lambing paddock as you often don't know that she hasn't lambed until the day you find her with a lamb a few days old, and then a new one!
The only cure is when you discover the trick is to shut her out of the lambing paddock until she has lambed or if she is near lambing, lamb her.
Often you are tempted to put her in the killer's paddock when you discover what she's been up to and the trouble she has caused to your records!

Mothering and lamb survival

Sheep are classical "follower species" where the lamb follows the ewe most of the daylight hours and right up to weaning.
The lamb starts following movement immediately it is on its feet after birth. You'll see a very young lamb follow the shepherd, the dog or the bike, and this can lead to mismothering.
Lambs learn to recognise their mothers by sight by about 3 days of age.
Multiple births are common in sheep. Finnish Landrace sheep can even have litters up to 7-8. As the ewe has two teats, there is high mortality in these highly fertile breeds unless the lambs are artificially reared.
Breeders once started to select sheep with four functional teats but this has not got very far.
Good lamb survival depends on the ewe licking the lamb and the lamb finding the teat immediately after birth.
Teat seeking behaviour is important. The lamb has got to be determined to get on its feet, start nuzzling the ewe to find an area of bare skin and find a teat to suck on.
Some lambs find the skin under the front legs and waste time looking for a teat there before moving to the rear end of the ewe.
A good ewe will encourage the lamb to move to the rear by standing still and nuzzling its rump and anal area.
Inexperienced young ewes will not stand still and turn round to lick the lamb all the time. Lamb dies of starvation often through this overzealous mothering.
Once the lamb has found the teat it will stand with head down reaching below the ewe, pushing upwards and once on the teat, wagging its tail while suckling. But don't assume that a lamb wagging its tail has always found the teat - check that its under belly is rounded and full of milk.

Lambs in the first 3 days :

Dystocia of single lambs that get too big and stick in the birth canal.
Death of small multiple lambs that have not sucked.
Lambs that die from wet and cold - hypothermia.
Multiples left behind to starve when ewe takes off with one lamb.
Lambs that suffocate as membranes around lamb have not broken at birth.
Lambs that follow other ewes and are rejected. Not found again by own dam.
Lambs that have slipped down steep hillsides away from their birth site.
Lambs that die from haemorrhage as ewe has chewed the navel or tail

Bonding

First sound then sight soon reinforce the ewe/lamb bond that was built initially on smell. The ewe recognises the lamb's bleat, and the lamb learns the ewe's call.
This is important as lambs get older and spend time away from the ewe for short periods, e.g. with other lambs.
Lambs show great play behaviour especially approaching dusk when they race along fences and play "king of the castle". They can often fall down holes and drown in water troughs during this activity.
When danger is seen, the ewe first calls the lamb then checks its approaching identity by sight.

Triplet problems

The increasing fertility in modern sheep breeds has led to higher numbers of triplets and quads in commercial flocks.
As a ewe only has two teats, inevitably there are higher death rates in these multiples and if they are reared, either on the ewe or artificially, it leads to many smaller lambs at weaning.
Some farms now get up to 40% triplets and once litter size (number of lambs born/100 ewes lambing) gets over 2.2, an increasing number of quads are born which the ewe cannot rear.
With triplets, observant farmers have noticed that between 10-15 days after birth, the ewe decides that she cannot feed all her lambs so she starts to leave one behind.
The two that get to the udder first can soon drink all the milk so when it's the turn of the third lamb, there is no milk left. The neglected third lamb is found motherless in the paddock and will die if not removed and fed which may not be economic.
Advisors recommend that ewes with twins and triplets are run together and ewes with singles grazed on their own.
This is because there’s a better chance of multiples moving between dams than a ewe with a single accepting a stray multiple lamb.

Reviving starved lambs

If a lamb is badly chilled and not had any colostrum, chances of survival are poor.
Colostrum is vital – and it will have to be tube fed.
Wrapping the lamb in an old electric blanket works best. It stays at constant heat.
Bathing a starved lamb in a blood-heat water may work followed by placing them under a heat lamp.
In the batch as the water cools, this effectively finishes the lamb off.
Make sure you don’t overheat the lamb under the heat lamp.
Vigorous rubbing with an old towel helps circulation followed by the heat lamp.
Whisky or brandy was a traditional lamb “saviour” but it’s more effective if the shepherd takes it!

Fostering

Bonding of the ewe and lamb is very rapid at birth - it only takes a few minutes. Once the ewe has smelled the lamb she will not take a lamb that smells differently.
To foster lambs on to ewes, there are a few tricks but realise that some ewes are more determined than others not to be fooled.
To add a lamb to a ewe that already has a single, have the lamb ready and cover it in the ewe's birth fluids so both lambs smell the same. The fostered lamb will be more active so make sure the ewe licks her own lamb well and it gets a drink. It's best to artificially feed it to make sure it gets enough colostrum.
For a ewe with a dead lamb, skin the dead lamb and make it into a suit with holes for legs to fit on the fostered lamb.
Use strong smelling oil or commercial product to put on lamb and up the ewe's nostrils. This is not always effective.
Put the ewe in close confinement or in a headbail and leave the lamb with her till she accepts it. This may take a few days and some ewes will win the battle with you and never take the lamb.

Are sheep intelligent?

You have to be careful not to define "intelligence" in human terms.
Sheep are not the stupid animals many people take them for.
Sheep are certainly capable of learning simple routines like coming when called, finding holes in fences, opening gates and they can learn these tricks from each other.
Food rewards are the way to teach sheep routines and tricks, if you think it's a wise move. You may live to regret it!
Lambs quickly learn from their dams - e.g. eating new feed like concentrate meal, grain, hay, silage, cracking open chestnuts with their feet, selecting garden flowers, and so on.Sheep handling tips
To keep sheep moving, make sure there's always a clear way ahead.
Sheep don't like visual dead ends - they don't move freely towards them.
Arrange things so that they think they're about to escape back to their home territory - the paddock they came from!
For a dead end in a woolshed, put a mirror on the wall so the sheep see a sheep to move to for security.
If you have to put sheep along a handling race, pen a decoy sheep at the far end to help attract them along.
Make races narrow enough to prevent sheep turning round and blocking the flow. This is not easy, as you have to handle sheep ranging in size from large pregnant ewes to small lambs in the same facilities.
Having tapered sides to the race (slightly wider at the top than at the bottom) can help.
Make sure the sides of pens and races where you do most of the handling are closely boarded, so the sheep cannot see through and get distracted.
Advancing sheep should not be able to see those following them, as they'll stop then reverse, or try to turn round and block the flow.
Sheep following each other should see sheep moving ahead, preferably around a bend. Moving sheep will generally "pull" the followers with them - once you've got a flow going.
Sheep move best from dark into light, and generally dislike changes in light contrast.
Sheep don't like bright lights e.g. reflections from windows.
They don't like light coming up from under gratings. Gratings at woolshed doors should to be laid so the floor looks solid on entry to the sheep.
Sheep really panic on slippy floors so provide some grip.
Sheep soon get adjusted to any noise used to move them - so keep changing the noise for effect.
Changing it (or stopping it) will also help prevent the workers going silly!
Sheep remember past experiences. Run them through new facilities a few times and let them think they can escape before you subject them to any unpleasant procedures like ear tagging or shearing.
If you have badly designed handling facilities that cannot be fixed - keep a "Judas" sheep to lead the doubters through.
To lead other sheep into the truck, you can train a Judas sheep with some pellets, and pet lambs are useful for this job. Make sure the Judas sheep isn't accidentally loaded into the truck though! Cover it with coloured marker raddle.

Catching and holding sheep

Don't catch or hang on to sheep by their wool. It will cause pain.
To catch a sheep, move up quietly behind it. This is the 'blind zone' but in practice the sheep will always see you coming so it's best to have it in a crush pen blocked in with other sheep.
The aim is to end up with it sitting on its rear end for jobs like feet trimming.
Hold it still by putting one hand under its chin and lift its head slightly to stop it lurching forward. If it gets its head down you will lose control.
Start by placing one hand under its chin, and turn its head round to face its rear on the side away from you. Grab its rear end with your other hand, or down where the back leg joins the body. See picture below.
Hang on tight and move backwards pulling the sheep towards you. Keep pressure on its head.
The sheep's legs should buckle and its body will fall back towards you. Don't let it fall to the ground or you'll lose it.
If you are strong and the sheep small, a lift along with the twist will stop the sheep's legs contacting the ground and reducing the chances of it getting a foothold and fighting to escape.
Then quickly grab its front legs and pull it up on its rear end at an angle of about 60 degrees from upright. If it is too far forward it will jump back on to its feet - be prepared for this. If it is too far back it will struggle and kick with both back legs in unison.
Practice finding the right angle to sit the sheep, and keep your legs close in behind its body.
When you find the right angle, the sheep will relax and you can take your hands off and hold it only with your legs and especially your knees. It's the position a shearer uses before starting to shear.

Sheep-human problems

Declining profits on sheep farms has lead to:

Reduced farm maintenance seen in poor fences /yards/woolshed.
Reduced fertiliser so less quality feed.
Increased flock size so more sheep/person and overwork brings less care about the individual animal.
An aging farmer and family wanting less work.
Shortage of skilled labour - shepherds, shearers, wool handlers.
All these points have animal behaviour and welfare implications.
What are the solutions? Farmers must devise and use more technology without compromising the welfare of the sheep. Start to use the sheep's innate behaviour to make handling easier.

Sheep welfare issues

The many people and organisations interested in sheep welfare list the following topics for concern:
Lameness. The pain caused by sore feet, so sheep graze walking on their knees.
Flystrike. The agony of being eaten alive by maggots.
Shearing. Stress caused by catching the sheep and then having a machine run all over its body with the risk of being cut.
Shearing. Cold stress caused by losing its fleece, especially in unseasonal storms.
Stress from not shearing. Having to carry many years of wool in summer heat. And often not being able to see (wool blind) into the bargain.
Dystocia. Problems caused by difficult births.
Lamb mortality. Lambs lost through hypothermia.
Castration. The pain of having rubber rings put on testicles or having them cot out with a knife and no anaesthetic.
Docking. Having the tail removed with a rubber ring or a cut off with a hot cauterizing iron and no anaesthetic.
Transport. The stress of long journeys in land vehicles and even longer journeys by ship to hot countries.
Dipping. Making sheep run through or stand in showers or swim through dip baths.
Swim washing at works. Sheep don't like having to be made to swim.
Dog worrying. The panic and pain that stray dogs cause.
Mulesing. Removal of the loose skin around crutch by hand shears with no anaesthetic.
Parasites. The stress and poor health caused by both internal and external parasites.
Untreated diseases. Sheep left to suffer the disease without any treatment.
Underfeeding. This happens when farms have too many stock and in droughts.

Easy-care or minimal-shepherding systems. This is where shepherds keep away from their sheep and rely on "the survival of the fittest" principle. Animals may be left to suffer in this system.


  Dr Clive Dalton

الخميس، 9 يناير 2014

Rabbits Behaviour and Welfare

Why keep rabbits?

rabbits  are very territorial and they don't like it interfered with.
They must be handled regularly and kindly by the owner.
rabbits  are bred for exhibition and there are breeders' organisations in most parts of the country.
They can be kept for a domestic meat supply or can be run commercially for meat. They produce white meat, which is grouped with poultry and veal but they have the large advantage that they don't compete with man for grain.
Commercial rabbit farming for meat is usually a large operation where production, processing and marketing are all integrated like broiler chickens. What they produce per kg of body weight far exceeds any other farm animal and their reproductive rate far exceeds any other farm animal.
rabbits  can also be kept for their fibre (Angora) either as a hobby with a few animals, or with larger numbers in a commercial operation.
They are been integrated with a tourism where the Angora  rabbits  are on display, their fibre harvested, spinning is demonstrated and end garments offered for sale.
They can also provide pelts, usually as a byproduct from some other commercial operation such as meat. However some coloured and patterned pelts come from surplus exhibition rabbits.

Breeds and types

In New Zealand all breeds have been imported, but we do not have the full range seen in Europe or USA. Below are the main ones.

Meat rabbits

New Zealand White
Flemish Giant
Dutch
Californian
Himalayan

Fibre rabbits

Angora

Exhibition rabbits

Netherlands dwarf
French lop
Rex
Chinchilla

Handling

You can lift small young  rabbits  by holding them gently and firmly around the loin.
Larger  rabbits  are carried by holding the scruff in the right hand for balance and taking the animal's weight on your left hand and forearm held under the rump. If the rabbit struggles, the left arm can hold it.
Vicious  rabbits  (biting and scratching). There can be a number of reasons for this so try to find out why. It may be rough handling, starvation, too cramped conditions, teasing, etc. Regular quiet and gentle handling is a good investment, especially for pet animals.
If  rabbits  are persistently vicious, then they should be culled.

Nails

Caged  rabbits  will need to have their nails clipped at regular intervals.
With Angoras they can be nail clipped when shorn.
Use proper nail clippers and only cut about 5mm from the quick, which is easily seen against the light. If you cut into the quick the nail will bleed and cause pain.
Use a strong light under the nail to help see the blood line and avoid cutting into the quick.

Teeth

Rabbits have teeth occlusion problems where top and bottom teeth do not meet correctly and are not worn down evenly. They grow past each other so grown long and need to be treated. Consult a veterinarian for the correct procedure.

Sexing

Do this at 6-8 weeks so males and females can be cages separately.
Hold the rabbit upside down in your left hand with your fingers holding the legs to prevent struggling.
Use your right hand to press gently on the side of the vent area.
In the male (buck) a small tubular protrusion (sheath) can be seen, and in a doe there is a minute slit.
Seek experienced help to confirm your diagnosis.

Sexual maturity (puberty)

Most breeds are sexually mature at 5.5 to 6 months old. So a doe mated at 5.5 months will have her first litter at 6.5 months. Bucks are best used first at 6 months old.
The Angora is ready for breeding at 5-6 month's of age, but many producers wait till the third shearing at 8 months to evaluate its fibre production before using it as a parent to improve the stock.

A good production routine is as follows:

Week 1 Mate, shear, dose, cut nails.
Week 3 Put next boxes in dam's cage
Week 4 Kits born
Week 5 Kits removed from dam, sexed and shorn.
Week 12 Shear the doe and re-mate her.

Oestrus (heat)

rabbits  come on heat all the year round but do not have a regular cycle like larger farm animals. But high temperatures in summer (above 30°C) will reduce oestrus.
Follicles mature in 18 days, remain for about 7 days and regress in the next 9 days unless ovulation occurs.
The ovaries contain sufficient follicles on the 2nd and 3rd after kindling, and then again on the 17th to 20th day to allow successful pregnancy. So  rabbits  can be mated the day after the kits are born. So pet owners should be warned! This is why the rabbit can become a major environmental pest.
The event of mounting stimulates ovulation and they are prone to false (phantom or pseudo) pregnancies by this event. So for example females mounting females in a communal cage can stimulate false pregnancy.

Mating

In general mate young bucks to old does, and young does with an old buck. But this advice should not be set in concrete.
For mating - Make sure the doe is ready before taking her to the buck's cage. Her vulva will be slightly swollen and a bit red or purplish in colour. When not on heat it will be pale pink or white. Watch out for fighting and possible injury if the doe is not on heat.
Does are often taken to the buck in the morning and then 6-8 hours later in the same day. If the doe ovulates and conceives separately to each mating, both litters will be born close to the same time and there will be no size variation.
Mating may be a noisy affair (maybe pain or ecstasy) and the buck will fall sideways or backwards after the event. Don't leave the two together for long after mating as their attitudes can change quickly and end up with a fight.
Females can be held and supported from below if necessary to make the buck's job easier. But make sure she is properly on heat or false pregnancy and wasted time will be the result.
A doe can be bred the day after her kits are born, provided she is healthy.
If she is skinny as a result of her large litter and high milk production, then she must be built up with full feeding for a few days before mating.
Sometimes a sluggish buck can be stimulated by a back massage or a tickle of his sides and thighs. This may not always work so beware incase he doesn't like it.
Bucks that have become obese may need to be put on a strict diet to lose weight to boost their libido.

Pregnancy

Pregnancy in  rabbits  averages around 31 days.
Does can be palpated to determine pregnancy but it needs experience. The doe is held by one hand and the other is used to palpate the belly in front of the pelvis to feel for the small developing embryos. But be careful as injury can result if not done properly.

Preparation for birth

Nest building. Does are nest builders so some form of nesting material (hay, straw or clean shavings) must be provided to put in the next box in the cage. Do this a few days before she is due.
The doe will also pluck her belly a few days before birth to line the nest. This will also remove long hair to expose her nipples for the kits.
You may have to pluck the belly hair if the doe neglects to do it.

Birth

Kits are born naked and blind and stay confined to the nest for 2-3 weeks.
Leave the doe alone during birth and avoid any disturbance. Severe trauma at birth may result in her eating the young.
Give her a "feed treat" the next day so when she's out of the box you can count the litter. Examples are some leaves of comfrey, plantain, dandelion, or clover.
Litter sizes will vary greatly. An average litter is about 7 but this can range from 2 to 24 kits per litter.
Larger litters tend to have more losses up to weaning. Mortality of 6-8% is usual immediately after birth.
High death rates will occur if the kits are not suckled on the three consecutive days after birth.
Check for kits that get dragged over the edge of the box when the doe comes out.
Check the kits every day until they are ready to come out of the box on their own.
High temperatures may cause problems and often it's a good idea to put nesting boxes on the cool ground in a safe place.
Kit's eyes should open by 12-14 days. If any are delayed they may need bathing and some gentle encouragement by applying gentle pressure on each side of the eyelid.
Suckling takes place once a day, usually in the morning

Fostering

Offspring (kits) can be fostered from one doe to another provided they are within one week of birth of the foster mother. This is a useful practice to give kits from does with large litters to does with small litters - provided they have a good milk supply to rear them.

Rearing orphans

This is generally not worthwhile unless you want to preserve some special blood line. It's vital that the kits have their mother's colostrum immediately after birth. Talk to your vet about a suitable milk substitute for young kits.

Weaning

Young  rabbits  are normally weaned at 8 weeks of age and the sexes should be caged separately after this.
Number weaned averages around 6 but with a wide range from 2-10.
Some litters may wean themselves at 28 days, but it's a good idea to leave them as family group till 56 days.
You can leave a couple of kits with the doe for a few days after weaning a heavy-milking doe, to avoid milk build up and caking on her skin.
To reduce the stress of weaning young  rabbits  and possible weight loss, transfer the feeder from their old cage to the new one, so some familiar smells go with them to their new quarters.

Feeding

Pet  rabbits  will live well on kitchen and garden scraps, grazing the lawn and supplemented with pellets from the pet shop. In fact they may become obese on this diet unless you take care to avoid overfeeding.
If you want  rabbits  to grow and reproduce effectively, then you will have to consider their nutrition very seriously.
High performing  rabbits  must be fed a balanced diet containing all the nutrients required to meet their needs. These will vary with climate, pregnancy, growth, lactation, litter size and so on.
From day 1-21 days of pregnancy a doe will not need much more than the feed needed to maintain her bodyweight. But from day 22-31 there is a massive increase in feed requirements to nurture her growing litter up to birth.
Calcium and phosphorus are particularly important for growth, pregnancy and lactation. There are also a large number of vitamins and trace elements needed for health and high production.
rabbits  require fibre which can be incorporated in a fully pelleted diet. Diets fed as pellets save a lot of waste.
Pelleted diets should contain at least 15 % crude fibre and 17% protein. Check the nutritional content before you buy.
For  rabbits  producing fibre, the Sulphur amino acid content of the ration must be above 0.6%.
Clean water should be made available at all times.
All feed and water troughs/bottles must be kept clean - neglect will lead to digestive upsets and disease.
Don't leave feed in the hopper for more than two days as it becomes stale.
Make sure that  rabbits  clean up what they are offered each day - don't overfeed them.
Stale, mouldy or contaminated feed must never be fed to rabbits. It can lead to rapid death. Don't store feed for more than 6-8 weeks incase of moulds developing.
Introduce any new type of feed or new batch, over a few days to allow the gut flora to adjust. Mix the last bag of the old batch with the first bag of the new batch.
Check the feed analysis on the bag and if you don't understand anything, consult your supplier.

Coprophagia (eating faeces)

rabbits  produce two types of pellets - hard and soft.
The hard pellets drop through the cage and are not eaten.
If these hard pellets are soft or diarrhoea occurs, then feed more hay and cut down the pellets.
The rabbit will also produce naturally-soft pellets which it eats direct from the anus. This is Coprophagia.
Coprophagia is part of a normal rabbit's digestive system where it recycles vitamins.

Housing

For generations,  rabbits  have been kept very successfully as pets, for meat and for fibre in hutches either outside in gardens or inside other buildings.
Hutches. Size is not critical, as long at the rabbit has enough area (see below for cage sizes).  rabbits  like a dark enclosed resting/nesting area, and an open area for feeding and exercise.
Outside hutches need to be weather proof, but avoid using treated timber incase the  rabbits  start chewing the wood and get poisoned. Covering outside surfaces with bitumastic felt is ideal for weather protection.
Pet  rabbits  are also commonly kept in runs with a covered area where they can graze the lawn.
For larger rabbit operations, it's better to consider cages inside buildings.
For purpose-built structures you need to be aware of local authority regulations and bylaws.
Siting of rabbit houses is critical to success, and to avoid environmental/health problems.

Minimal floor areas needed for caged rabbits.

Does - 8/litter to 5 weeks (0.56m²)
Does - 8/litter to 8 weeks (0.74m²)
Weaners 5-12 weeks/rabbit (0.07m²)
rabbits  over 12 weeks/rabbit (0.18m²)
Adult breeding stock over 12weeks (0.56m²)

The main problem in buildings is environmental control to deal with the cold in winter, high temperatures and humidity in summer. Cold in New Zealand is a minor problem except for young kits or newly shorn Angoras. Our problems are more likely to be heat and humidity control.

With commercial houses being open-sided, the problem can be air control without causing draughts. Windbreaks can be planted alongside rabbit houses which can also provide fodder (e.g. tree Lucerne).
Cages are essential if you want to keep any number of rabbits. They're easy to keep clean and provide free air flow.
Cages need to be made of welded wire mesh.
Floor 25 x13mm mesh of 2.5mm diameter.
Sides and top 50 x 25mm mesh of 2mm diameter.

Cage sizes

For does and litter to weaning , - min floor area of 0.54m², 900mm x 600mm x 450mm high.
Weaners 5-12 weeks - ditto (provides 0.07m²/head)
Woollers over 12 weeks - 770 x 450 x 450 high (0.3m²/head)
Cage doors. Should be big enough to get  rabbits  and equipment in and out easily. An opening of 330 x 420mm is ideal. Side doors are preferred to those on top to allow more room below cages and ease of operation.
Feed hoppers. Should be fitted with a dust extractor, either gauze or a narrow slot and a lip or partitions in the trough to stop the rabbit scratching out the feed.
Fit the feed hoppers through the cage wall with the base not more than 75mm above the floor. It must be big enough to hold a day's feed.

Water

Nipples are the best way to ensure a continuous clean water supply. Fit them about 200mm above floor height. If fitted too low it may discourage drinking and if too high it could be out of reach.
Check water nipples regularly as lack of water is the main cause of  rabbits  not eating.

Nest boxes

Should be large enough for the doe to kindle in comfort, and suckle the kits for 3-4 weeks without risk of injury through over crowding.
Size 500mm x 250mm x 250 mm high.
Make one side 180mm high for easy entry by the doe and retain the kits.
Untreated 12mm plywood is ideal for nest boxes. Or use a wire mesh frame with a disposable wax cardboard liner. Or a box with sheet metal top and sides and a wooden or composition floor. In freezing conditions put polystyrene in the nest box under the hay for extra insulation.
Nest boxes can be put inside the cage or mounted outside the doorway.

Waste disposal

Pits dug 500mm deep below the cages are best. Put a layer of coarse sand or fine road metal in the bottom of the pit for drainage. The dung should be left undisturbed and kept as dry as possible (watch for leaking water systems). This method should last six months or a year before cleaning is needed.
Rake off waste hay at regular intervals. The dung pits are an ideal place to start worm farming. It's a very good idea to concrete the walkways between the cages for both hygiene and safety reasons.

For optimal production, 15 hours of daylight every 24 hours should be maintained.
rabbits  and their leftovers will attract vermin such as rats, mice, stoats, weasels, ferrets and possums. Make sure you have a pest prevention and destruction programme in place at all times.

Health and welfare

The secret to success is to provide a good healthy environment and remember that prevention is always more effective and cheaper than cures.
rabbits  should live to 5-6 years old if healthy and well cared for.
Constant vigilance is the key to see problems almost before they have developed.
Dust, toxic gases like ammonia, and high humidity irritate lungs and nasal passages and will make a rabbit more prone to respiratory problems such as snuffles.
Ammonia fumes are killers. They arise from accumulated dung and urine below cages. Make sure you have good ventilation all year round.
rabbits  must have a free flow of air at all times, but without draughts.
Cages must be kept clean, especially from a build up of dung, hay or fibre. A regular clean with a blowtorch is a good idea. This will also remove dung pellets hanging from hairs below the cages.
In commercial operations, cages must be up off the ground where dung and urine fall into a pit below to be cleaned out once a year. One tier of cages is best as banks of them often cause problems. Many producers keep a worm farm in the droppings below the cages.
The water supply must be kept clean and free from faults. Nipple drinkers are best.
Discuss an animal health programme with your vet before you start, then you'll know how to develop a management programme based on disease prevention.
Have a quarantine or isolation area for new animals brought in or those under observation. Sick animals can also be held here when under treatment.
Normal temperature in the rabbit is 38-39°C.
Normal respiration is 32-60beats/min.
Now that the Calici virus is here in New Zealand, it would be wise to contact your veterinarian about protection against it by vaccination.

Fibre harvesting

Removing the fleece from a rabbit can cause a great deal of stress. Angora fibre can be harvested by shearing or plucking.
Shearing needs special skill and patience with the animal as the rabbit's legs have to be strapped on a special flip-over board.
rabbits  are normally shorn first at 8 weeks, then at 20 weeks and 32 weeks.
Small animal clippers with the correct head are essential if you have many animals. It will take about 20 minutes to shear a rabbit. Experts can do it in 10 minutes.
Scissors can be used for few animals but they must be sharp and well maintained.
It is vital to avoid "second cuts" in the fibre. Keeping the shearing head flat on the skin all the time does this.
The fibre is so light that it doesn't fall away like wool on a sheep. It's a good idea to have a helper to do this and blow gently on the fibre to remove any second cuts.
Also wear a mask as spare fibres float in the air and can be easily breathed in.
The skin must be held tight with your spare hand to avoid cuts and teats must be protected by your fingers when shearing the belly.
Shorn yields will always be greater than plucked yields.
The first crop is shorn from  rabbits  at 2 months old when the "baby" fibre is removed. After that the animal must be shorn every 90 days. Some people even shear every 10-12 weeks.
Animals will need protection from cold until the coat has grown again. A nest box and bedding will provide this. Appetite will increase after shearing so give them some extra feed.
Plucked fibre brings the highest price in Europe.
For plucking, the rabbit has to be handled 2-3 times to remove the entire coat unless it happens to be in a complete moult.
Plucking is often done over a period of days as all the fibre may not be "ripe" all at the same time.
To gain plucking experience, try the long fibres on different parts of an old doe. If they come out easily, pluck them with index finger and thumb. Use the other hand to hold the rabbit.
Remove the long fibres only and don't attempt to pluck them unless they are loose, as this will stress the rabbit.

Grooming

Grooming can be very stressful for the rabbit if not done with care.
It is done with a wire comb and keeps the rabbit's fleece free from mats and knots.
It is best done as a weekly routine when little work is involved.
Neglect and poor husbandry will produce matted dirty fleeces, resulting in low returns and mountains of work trying to rescue fibre.
rabbits  shorn every 10-12 weeks need very little grooming.

    Dr Clive Dalton


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Goats Behaviour And Welfare


Goats are not like sheep :
The first thing to accept is that  goats  are very different from sheep in their behaviour, and we sometimes forget this when trying to handle them.
The goat is found on all the continents of the world, and is one of man's most important animals as more people in the world eat goat meat than eat sheep meat.
Goat remains 10,000 years old (or of their early ancestors) have been found in central and West Iran, and domestic  goats  existed in other parts of the world for 8,000 years.
Some authorities suggest that  goats  were companion animals long before dogs. The goat has also caused many of the world's deserts through man's ignorance and stupidity resulting in over grazing.
The goat was domesticated early along with sheep and adapted well to man's nomadic lifestyle as well as in established farming.
goats  are a different species to sheep with different numbers of chromosomes (sheep 27 pairs and goat 30 pairs). Hybrids between them are often reported (Geeps or Shoats) but are not viable and don't breed.
Products from  goats  :
Meat : called Chevon
Dairy produce : milk, cheese, yoghurt
Skins : Fibre - mohair, cashmere, cashgora (Cashmere x Angora), and beard hair.
In some cultures they are sacrificed for religious reasons.
Companions and pets.
Goat senses
Sight :
Sight is very similar to sheep (see sheep)
goats  have a similar blind spot at their rear, but they are more difficult to catch using this area as they are generally more alert than sheep and are not blinded by wool on the head and around the eyes.
They can distinguish different colours - responding best to orange and worst to blue.
Hearing :
goats  are very sensitive to a range of sounds from the high pitched squeals of kids to low pitched snorts or foot stamping on the ground.
They have an ability to move their ears to locate the source of sound.
Smell :
Being browsers and highly selective grazers,  goats  have a keen sense of smell which aids in diet selection.
goats  will not eat mouldy or musty feed, and generally avoid poisonous plants unless they are wilted and then are more palatable.
Ingestive  behaviour  ( Grazing , Feeding , Drinking & Rumination ) :
goats  are ruminants but don’t have a split upper lip like sheep so don’t graze as close to the ground as sheep.
goats  are classical browsers and are used by farmers to graze out weeds if no chemical sprays are wanted.
They are effective ruminants relying completely on pasture by about 15 weeks of age when they synchronise their grazing  behaviour  with their dam.
goats  seem to be less concerned about prickly plants suggesting their lips are different to sheep.
They eat a lot of roughage that includes weeds, woody shrubs, leaves and bark. They are well known for ring barking trees. They have been shown to digest cellulose and lignin in plants more efficiently than sheep.
They eat plants from tip down to base - that's why they are so good at killing gorse and thistles and stopping them seeding.
goats  will also stand on their hind legs to reach up high to browse and will use their front legs to hold branches down. They'll even climb trees to get at leaves.
They do not like clover so goat pastures end up being very clover dominant.
Dairy  goats  are fed grain to maintain their production, as they generally cannot eat enough pasture to maintain high yields (around 6Litres per day).
A study of NZ feral  goats  showed they spent 30% of their day feeding with their first period being from dawn to 10.30am, then resting till more grazing from 11am to noon.
Then there was another rest period till a grazing spell from 2.30pm - 3.30 pm followed by another rest spell. The final grazing spell was for 3 hours before sunset.
Of the total feeding period, 34% was grazing and 65% browsing. Ruminating took up 10% of the total time with 46% resting. Most resting took place in winter and least in autumn when mating.
About 12% of the goats' time was spent traveling about 3km/day while grazing or going to water.
They were seen to defaecate 3.4 times/day and urinate 5times/day, but these are very dependent on the diet.
Social  behaviour  :
goats  are a flocking species but they don't flock as tightly as sheep.
Feral  goats  are hard to muster as individuals (especially males) keep breaking back and prefer to escape rather than herd with the mob.
Sheep stick with the mob for safety unlike  goats  that seem to more keen to take a chance on their own.
goats  will herd together better when you get them off their home range. It's a good idea to have some sheep in the goat mob to encourage flocking during mustering.
goats  are a "lying-out" species like cattle and deer which is a big contrast to sheep.
Males join harems of females in autumn and feral bucks will travel up to 20km to find does. But the rest of the year they are in bachelor groups or live as solitary males. They sort out a social order in these groups by bunting and horn wrestling.
So most of the year, an alpha female leads a small family group of females suckling their current kids, with any previous adolescent females still in the group. A dam may suckle a kid till the next one is born.
Younger members of the family or tribe are submissive to higher-ranking females.
As most feral  goats  in NZ have horns, they use these along with head butts to sort out their social status.
In farmed milking goats, you see them bunting and biting each other in the milking bail to sort out their differences, especially in competition for any feed supplements.
At mating the buck is the harem leader and fights off any on-comers. These may be younger lower-ranking males in the group waiting for an opportunity, but the old buck is the boss and does the mating.
Mature bucks sort themselves out by serious head butting, rising on their hind legs to attack with horns and heads. They also use their horns to side-rake their opponents
Climbing and digging :
Goats are remarkable in their ability to climb and can move safely along narrow mountain paths to graze among the rocks.
You often see a roadside goat standing on the ridge of their A-framed shelter.
The contrast between  goats  and sheep is best seen at school pet days, where the goat kids are tested in extra exercises like climbing and walking over a see saw which would be a much greater challenge to a lamb.
This ability can be a problem in farming, as  goats  will climb fence stays to jump over. So electric fencing is necessary to run goats, especially at the high stocking rates needed to make them eat weeds.
Goats will also dig holes below fences to escape. They also like to dig areas to lie in and enjoy the sun's warmth in winter. They do this especially on North facing slopes which then start eroding.
The female (Doe or Nanny) :
goats  are seasonal breeders coming into heat in autumn as daylight declines.
They reach maturity at about 5-6 months old but well-reared milking-breed kids can show heat earlier (4 months) so they have to be watched to avoid too-early mating.
Once the doe starts cycling she will come on heat every 17 days like sheep, and stays on heat for about a day. But these times can vary greatly.
Feral does seem to prefer old mature high-ranking bucks in preference to young ones. But this may be because the old bucks are more aggressive and chase the young ones away.
Signs of oestrus :
Vocalisation - especially if a lone goat.
Urinating a lot - crouched with rear legs set open.
Tail fanning.
Showing aggression to other  goats  and biting them in the milking bail.
Some mounting of other  goats  - or their friendly owner!
The doe is stimulated to cycle and ovulate by the smell of the buck.
Pregnancy in  goats  is about 5 months like sheep.
goats  can show pseudo-pregnancy and it can be a problem mainly in milking herds.
The male (Buck or Billy) :
Male  goats  have a thick beard but so do females so the beard is not stimulated by hormones.
Male  goats  reach puberty about 4-5 months old, but you should not assume that younger males will not be fertile.
Mature males show a definite "rut" period and the first sign of it is when they start to smell strongly. This smell is made worse for humans (and better for does) by the goat spreading a thin jet or urine from his erect penis along the belly, chest and on to his beard.
This is called "enurination" and is seen regularly where bucks are tethered, or when kept separate from does waiting for mating to start. Bucks, especially male goatlings run in groups, can use up so much energy in this activity that it impairs their efficiency when joined with does.
Bucks twist themselves around so they can get their penis into their mouth where the urine stimulates a Flehmen reaction. They will often even masturbate and ejaculate on their bellies and beards - all adding to their aroma which stimulates heat and ovulation in the does.
Does often are very interested in this  behaviour  and stand and watch attentively.
Before mounting, the buck sniffs the doe's side and genital area. He chases her making "gobbling" sounds with his mouth, and flicking his tongue in and out like a ram does.
If the doe urinates he tastes it and gives a Flehmen response. He may have a false mount or two and then a proper mount with ejaculation when he thrusts forward and leaps off the ground.
Following ejaculation - he may lick his penis, and show a Flehmen response again.
Doe  behaviour  at birth ( Maternal  behaviour  ) :
Just before birth a doe is often more fretful and nervous.
Feral  goats  will separate from the main group and find a birth site in a quiet sheltered spot but milking  goats  in a herd may not have space to do this.
Near birth the doe will have "bagged up" and may show a mucous discharge from the vulva.
Udder swelling will be much more obvious in milking  goats  than in feral  goats  with smaller udders.
If kept indoors, the doe will paw the bedding and try to make a birth site.
Birth should take about an hour but problems can arise with multiple births as in sheep.
The doe should get up quickly and turn to chew the membranes and lick the kids. The kicking of the kids usually bursts any membranes covering them, but you can get deaths from a piece of membrane left on the nose.
Afterbirths are passed soon after birth but may be delayed for up to four hours. There seem to be fewer problems with retained foetal membranes in  goats  and sheep than in cattle.
The doe recognises its kid first by smell and then by both sound and sight.
Fostering alien kids to does has the same problems as in sheep, and the same tricks are needed to fool the doe. (See sheep behaviour).
Kids  behaviour  at birth ( Neonatal  behaviour  ) :
Once on their feet, kids should start their teat-seeking behaviour.
They nuzzle the doe's side to find some warm bare skin and hopefully with a teat.
Good mothers will stand still and encourage the kid to do this by nuzzling the kids rear end, rather than keep turning head-on to lick it.
Survival depends on getting enough colostrum within the first hours after birth.
Kids do not follow their mothers all the time like lambs so have fewer suckling periods when the doe goes back to feed them.
Cross fostering lambs on  goats  and vice versa highlights this behavioural difference, with lambs on  goats  growing faster than their kid mate as they followed the doe and suckle more. The ewe with a kid kept often loses it as the kid goes to lie on its own.
In the first few weeks after bonding is strong, a doe will go back to its hiding kid and feed it 4-5 times a day. This intense hiding  behaviour  lasts from 3days to several weeks till the kids are eating pasture when they follow their dams more.
Dairy kids are kept in mobs and fed on milk replacer diets where they can feed ad lib, along with supplemented hay and meal.
Disturbance at birth will cause bonding problems, and the doe may take off leaving a twin behind.
There is a high death rate among feral kids and you regularly see a doe with twins at birth with a single a week or so after birth.
With farmed goats, providing shelter is very important for does and kids during the first weeks of life.
During the first weeks, kids will start playing together but will still stay close to their dams. They often climb on their parents' backs and seem to be tolerated.
Kids start to nibble grass by 3 weeks of age, and after 8-9 weeks are very effective ruminants.

Dr Clive Dalton

Cats Behaviour , Problems and Welfare

Origins

Ancestors of domestic  cats  started to live alongside humans as early as 130,000 years ago attracted by vermin and discarded food scraps.
Then when man changed from hunter-gatherer to village resident, the cat became domesticated. DNA evidence now shows  cats  can be traced to the Eastern Mediterranean and Persian Gulf (the Fertile Crescent) to five female ancestors. These “founding felines” came from a wild cat Felis libyca, still found in remote deserts of the Middle East.
There are records of domesticated  cats  in ancient Egypt about 3500 years ago, where the cat was hunted for food and skins, and then encouraged to enter the human family for these reasons.
It fitted easily into the human family hierarchy.
It then developed religious significance in human society.
cats  are very reward-seeking which always appealed to humans as well as their aloofness.
Pest control was also a major reason for man keeping cats.

Modern cats

There's a vast range of breeds, and there are breeders increasing new genetic types all the time as there is big money in being the exclusive owner of a new type of cat.
We refer to "domesticated cats" or those that live in close association with man.
Then there are "farm cats" that are domesticated but not keen on close human contact.
"Feral cats" are those that have escaped from domestication and are fearful of human contact.

Social structure

cats  are "reward-seeking" animals and this helps in developing a social hierarchy.
cats  generally have a loose hierarchy - not as structured as dogs.
They time share areas in their territory.
Generally entire males are most dominant, followed by entire females, then spayed females and neutered males.
Most wild  cats  live solitary lives, but they can also live happily as part of a group.
Most domestic  cats  do the same but they have bonded owners to live with.
The "mother-kitten" relationship is the basis of group development. The female kittens stay on with mum while the males leave to set up territories and go solitary.
Some males are happy to stay in a single family group or they may move between groups.
A social group of females allows for synchrony of oestrus and mutual care including cross suckling of kittens.
Social structure becomes more defined and competitive when food is scarce, or where there is a limited amount of shelter.
Remember there is a lot of individual variation between  cats  due to genetics and early environment.

Cats and territory

Cats are territorial predators, which has important implications for modern humans.
They have a home range that they routinely check out daily to hunt and explore.
Home ranges of  cats  can overlap resulting in conflict and savage fights.
Tom  cats  have large territories that can cover around 1 km in all directions for their den (home). But this depends on other Toms in the area and where there are few, a Tom may extend his territory to much greater size.
Male  cats  know when they are not welcome in a strange area - note their stealth when they visit your property during a mating season.
In their home range they have all they need - food source, shelter, social contact, urination and defaecation areas.
They scent mark their range by clawing objects and spray urinating, and will protect it against intruders.
Once established - this marking routine may provide an expression of security (marking in the house).
Spraying. Urine contains glandular secretions so spraying is like leaving their CV around. It denoted gender, age, hormonal state and general health.
Middening.  cats  normally bury their faeces but they sometimes deliberately leave them on the surface to add scent to their territory, especially if they sense a challenge.
Clawing. This is used as a visual sign but also leaves odours from the glands from the pedal (foot) glands.
Nose rubbing.  cats  rub their cheeks on twigs (and their owners) to leave odours from their cheek glands.
Hunting the territory occurs mainly at dawn and dusk - they tend to be active only in short bursts.  cats  are incapable of sustained effort.
Cats are excellent climbers, and can handle falling in emergencies. They can swim when forced to, but it's not a preferred mode of transport.
Territory becomes a problem in cages but  cats  can survive together, even including Toms. But it needs skilled observation.
They can act in an "indifferent" mode to each other, as long as they have enough personal space above ground. The floor is used on a time-share basis.

Vision

Kittens are born nearly blind and their eyes open at 7-10 days old (range from 2-16 days).
So touch and physical contact are very important to cats. This has big implications for humans and is widely exploited to the benefit of both cat and owner.
cats  can see colour but with limited perception. They have better colour vision than dogs.
cats  are creatures of the night and see well in poor light due to the structure of the eye. They can dilate their large pupils.
Each eye has 150-205 degrees peripheral vision, with 90-130 degrees overlap for binocular vision. So they have a total visual field of 250-280 degrees.
cats  cannot focus closer than 75mm - but at that close distance when hunting they use other senses. Their best vision is around 2-6m

Hearing

Kittens are born with poor hearing and start to become normal by 3 weeks.
Cat hears sounds up to 50-85kHz - human upper limit is 18-20 kHz. So they hear about four times better than humans and in the ultrasonic range that we cannot hear.
cats  can also hear higher sounds than dogs.
Their hearing range is very wide - over 10.5 octaves.
cats  have mobile ears allowing rapid response to locate the source of the sound.
They can interpret different wave patterns hitting each ear.
The ear structure is a important in aiding balance when falling

Smell

cats  have a very well developed olfactory system - 1000 times better than humans.
Smell is very important in communication.
cats  recognise the general smell of their home environment and are sensitive to any small changes.
It's important to get the cat used to anything new in the environment as soon as possible - e.g. a new cat or baby.
cats  have a Vomeronasal organ (VNO) on the hard palate which they can use to sense chemicals in aromas. They then show a Flehmen response, baring their teeth and giving a quiet hissing sound - called the "gape response" like the Flehmen in large animals. You see it when they sniff catnip.
Smell governs what a cat will eat so they should avoid blocked noses.
A cat's sense of smell is much more developed than in humans.
They can detect small changes in food and you see this if you change a brand of cat meat. They will almost starve before they'll eat the new brand.
Newborn kittens have an acute sense of smell to help them locate teats

Taste

cats  show little response to sweet things but can detect salt, sour and bitter.
They are very sensitive to the taste of water which explain their bizarre  behaviour  of sometimes drinking from muddy pools and fish tanks.
Taste is less important than smell - smell is everything to a cat.
cats  don't taste when hunting prey, only when sink their teeth in after capture.

Touch (Kinaesthetics)

The cat's whole body is very sensitive to touch.
The long outer guard hairs of the coat are especially sensitive.
Hair movement provides information for the cat in its environment, e.g. wind direction to approach prey.
Receptors also are concentrated in the feet pads.
cats  are not very sensitive to heat - can stand up to 52C, e.g. lying beside fire.
They can detect changes of 0.5°C via their noses which they use in hunting.
cats  have very mobile whiskers used for sensing. Whiskers are forward when walking or hunting and back when greeting or sniffing.

Memory and learning

cats  can show some ability to reason and work things out - but it is limited, so make sure you have not been anthropomorphic in drawing conclusions.
The can understand cause and effect - if the interval between each is short.
The have a fair degree of memory retention if reinforced by repeated attempts.
Examples are  cats  that learn to jump up and turn door knobs or work cat doors.
cats  can learn from copying other cats. Kittens learn a wide range of behaviours from their mother, or mothers reinforce inherent behaviours.
More people are now training  cats  to do tricks, apart from the basic needs of house training, and stopping them scratching furniture.

Communication - sound

cats  being very social animals have a well developed communication skills.
They have learned to vocalise a special range of sounds for humans -  cats  don't mew to other cats.
Sixteen different sounds have been recognised that are audible to humans. There are also many which are not audible to us.

Pure calls

Murmur
Growl
Squeak
Hiss
Spit
Teeth chatter

Complex calls

Mew
Moan
Meow

There is also a wide range of tones and meanings - most common are growl/hiss/yowl.
Purring is most commonly known to humans as the sign of a happy cat and is a very typical greeting call. It was a long time before researchers found how the cat did it.
It's caused by rapid contraction of muscles in the larynx when the cat is contented or happy. A cat can sometimes purr when stressed. Purring is used when a mother nurses kittens as a contentment reassuring sound.
The meow has a wide range of tones and it's often easy for owners to interpret some of these sounds.
Oestrus howling has an important courting function, not appreciated by humans or their neighbours during the night!

Communication - body language

Cats use a large amount of non-verbal communication such as:

Body postures
Facial expressions
Eyes, ears, mouth, tail and coat.
They have developed a range of body signals for humans and other cats.
"Friendly and relaxed" - the tail is held out behind or erect and curled slightly forward. The cat will rub itself against things and rub its muzzle on you to transfer scent.
"Passive" - it sits crouched, tail and head down and avoids direct gaze.
"In conflict" - the entire tail twitches or just the end. It is done in association with other signs.
"Offensive threat" - the cat gives you a direct stare and its body is poised for attack. The cat approaches an enemy with sideways motion and prancing steps. This makes the cat look bigger to the enemy.
"Defensive threat" - the back is arched, body fur fluffed up and tail up straight. The chin is drawn in to protect the throat. One paw is raised ready to lash out.
With the eyes, narrow eyes show friendship with the stare being a definite threat.
When the cat turns away from you it can be a sign of disdain or that the relationship in from the cat's viewpoint is OK. If a cat jumps up on you this is also a sign that the cat does not see you as a threat.

Communication - pheromones

These are very important in cat communication.
They are spread around in urine marks, faeces, scratch marks from feet and cheek glands.
They make these marks where they are easy for other  cats  to find.
The higher they scratch the more powerful impression they leave.

Balance and activity

In the first couple of weeks after birth kittens crawl with sideways movements of the head like pups seeking warmth and teats.
It is 7 weeks before they can thermoregulate (control their heat) themselves as they need Mum's heat up to then.
By week 2 they can raise their front end.
By day 17 they can stand and do an awkward walk.
By 6 weeks they can right themselves if they fall over.
cats  show this amazing "righting reflex" when falling as they land on their feet. This is a function of the inner ear, a large cerebellum and the spinal cord.
Kittens are notoriously active and need to be encouraged to play in their socialisation and development.
Mature  cats  reduce activity and spend more than 65% sleeping.
Tom  cats  during the mating season are very active traveling long distances checking out their territory.

Play

Play is an essential part of normal  behaviour  in the cat.
It starts early as soon as kittens are mobile when they spend long periods interacting.
Play teaches the kitten all the movements needed to survive and reproduce as an adult.
Kittens reared in a litter are usually better-adjusted adults than single-reared kittens who only have their parents to play with.
As an individual in a litter, there's a much great chance to learn to prepare and defend yourself against surprise attack, than as a singleton.
A wide range of play moves have been identified:
Scoop, Toss, Grasp,Poke-Bat, Bite-Mouth, Belly up, Stand up, Vertical stand, Pounce, Chase, Side step, Horizontal leap, Face off

Grooming

This is a big feature of  cats  and occupies 30-50% of a cat's waking time.
It also creates problems - fur ball.

Purpose of grooming:

Maintains health of the skin and coat.
Cools the body by evaporation of saliva.
Controls parasites.
"Displacement grooming" is a response to conflict, environmental stress or frustration. It's thought to be a response to reduce anxiety.
"Mutual grooming" is used for social interaction and to show a relaxed state with other cats. Developed from maternal grooming.
"Over grooming" - a problem sometimes started by itchy skin. It can develop into a serious obsession where  cats  become "closet lickers" and are hard to catch at it and stop.

Socialisation

Kittens must be socialised early at between 2-6 weeks. This is a much shorter time span than in dogs.
If they can be handled before their eyes are open, that's all the better.
If kittens are not socialised before weaning (6weeks) then you'll have problems and it will take time to tame them.
Kitten Kindy. This is a new approach by veterinarians to teach people how to socialise their kittens.
At 2-9 weeks provide human contact and handling.
As often as possible before 12 weeks handle kittens and routinely restrain them.
7-12 weeks - provide social play.
After 14 weeks teach them fearful play, and learn to play fight.
Be careful with this "play fight" activity as it can teach them to be over aggressive.
Check the "Scruff test" where you hold the kitten by the scruff of its neck. If they allow this and don't fight of struggle, then they are probably OK.

Nutrition and feeding

cats  are mainly carnivores, but modern cat foods contain some cereals to provide carbohydrates.
cats  eat both day and night whereas dogs only feed during the day.
They are very fussy about what they eat due to their acute sense of smell, and once settled on a brand of cat food they often don't appreciate changes.
In the wild they would probably eat every second day after a hunt.
The principles of nutrition are simple - the cat's nutrient intake should meet its needs. So growing, pregnant and lactating  cats  will need a much higher plane of nutrition than the family cat that sleeps most of the time.
Overfeeding leads to obesity and health problems.
The modern domestic cat is regularly overfed. Owners who go out to work leave an ad lib feeder full of biscuits, or tinned meat in a dish far in excess of what the cat needs. Unless owners see feed left, they think the cat will be hungry and hence starve!
Owners need to discuss feeding their cat with a veterinarian so that it receives a correctly balanced diet which meets its needs - not its wants.

Reproduction

cats  are seasonal breeders and the start of oestrus is stimulated by increasing daylight. They need 12-14 hours of light to get going.
So the breeding season gets into full swing in spring.
Toms also are seasonally active but stud Toms will mate any time. Their maximum fertility is in spring.
Puberty is around 9 months but some breeds will start at 4 months.
cats  can be desexed at 6 months old.
Non pregnant females cycle every18-24 days.
Heat periods last 4 hours if mated and 5-10 days if not.
Ovulation is induced by copulation and it happens 27 hours after copulation.
If they don't conceive after mating they will often have a pseudo pregnancy and won't start cycling again for 36 days.
cats  have litters usually averaging around 4-5 kittens.
Kittens are born blind and with very poor hearing like pups.
Eyes open around 2-3 weeks.
The cat mating ritual is very defined with mock fighting, body contact, and rapid and repeated coitus. It's a very noisy affair that can go on all day.

Desexing (neutering)

Castration of males and spaying females prevents reproduction and all the associated behaviours.
Spraying and fighting may still continue, but this may be brought about by special environmental factors. It may be done away from home range.
The timing of desexing is important - get it done early before 6 months?
It is claimed that no other cat behaviours are affected.

Cat-human bond

Strength of the bond depends on good early socialisation of the cat by a human.
This is then transferable to a new human with time.
A cat may be more bonded to the home and its smells rather than the person - hence the problem of  cats  going back to an old home. The cat needs time to readjust to new environmental smells so keep it shut in for at least a week.
cats  will go for walks with owners and hunt. This is easier in rural areas.
Owners soon learn to interpret certain calls and cat seems to know this.
It is said that there is a stronger interaction between female humans than males with a cat.
It is also said that there is stronger interaction between a cat and an adult than with children.
These interactions are probably just based on food and who in the family feeds the cat regularly.

Cat's interaction with humans

Head butting
Rubbing cheeks on person
Kneading or paddling with feet and claws
Purring
Snuggling under armpit
Enjoying their noses and eyes covered by your cupped hand
If there are a number of  cats  in the house they need vertical space for a good human/cat relationship and will time-share these areas to avoid conflict..

Cat  behaviour  "Problems"

Like dogs-  cats  don't have problems, as they are behaving like cats.

It's the humans who have problems because they forget the domestic contract and the five freedoms, and expect their  cats  to adapt to what they want. This may not be possible or will take some time to achieve.

1. Poor human-cat bond

A strong bond is very important to both human and cat partners.
The bond is formed by good early socialisation and needs constant reinforcing.
Death, divorce and moving house are the three greatest bond breakers.
Surveys show that 50% of humans suffer stress on moving and 50% of  cats  must do also.
Most upset is resolved in 1-2 weeks but some lasts for 3-4 months.
Many people have unrealistic expectations of their cat and they have probably have the wrong species as a pet.

Possible cures/prevention

Socialise all kittens before they are 2-6 weeks old.
Keep reinforcing the bond by regular interaction with the cat.
Rehome the cat with someone with skills to resocialise it, in a different environment.

2. Poor socialisation.

"Nasty cats" (wild, unfriendly and unreliable) for whatever reason have probably not been properly socialised to humans.
Always start here to work out a cat  behaviour  problem.
What happens in the early weeks can have a lifelong effect.
You can fix some problems later, but it will take you time and it will cost the client money.
Some humans are better at taming wild  cats  than others showing a greater empathy and skill.

Possible cures/prevention

Socialise all kittens before they are 2-6 weeks old.
Keep reinforcing the bond by regular interaction with the cat.
Rehome the cat with someone with skills to resocialise it, in a different environment.

3. Infanticide

This is seen in lions when new males oust old ones and they kill all the cubs to bring females on heat quickly and remove all previous males' genetics at the same time.
It is known to happen in domestic  cats  and feral  cats  where Toms will kill young kittens on their rounds if not protected by the mother or owner.
Preventing this is a good reason for desexing non-breeding males, and trapping and euthanasing all stray Toms.

Possible cures/prevention

Desex all males not needed for breeding.
Try to trap and euthanase all stray and feral Toms.

4. Spraying

cats  spray to mark their territory, their home range and any new area.
Once they feel safe, they don't spray.
They are very sensitive to a "general safe smell" of their environment.
It's when their lair is under threat that they may start again.
It happens in both sexed or desexed cats.

Possible reasons?

New adult cat or kitten in the house.
Change of status in group.
Visiting Tom  cats  staking out territory (doormats and car wheels).
New baby in the house.
Neighbours have got new cats.
Bereavement in the house - cat's neglected.
Redecorate and new smells.
Plastic bags from outside with alien smells brought indoors.
Doormat with new footwear smells.
Installation of cat door - outside becomes inside.
Visitors car (with open windows).
Protest spraying - to inform owner cat is unhappy.
Genetics - oriental breeds.

Possible cures/prevention

Find the cause of the anxiety - try to remove it.
Something needs to change - and you need to find out.
Don't punish the cat - or don't be caught doing it.(Try a water pistol).
Confine cat to safe home area - and slowly expand it.
Feed it near where it sprays.
If "protest spray" - rebuild the bond with the cat.
Drugs from vet
Rehome the cat with someone in a different environment.

5. Defaecating

cats  normally bury their faeces. When they don't it's generally deliberate and is called "maddening".
It's another way for  cats  to mark territory.
It happens when  cats  are in panic mode - e.g. if locked in the house or may do it on the bed when owners are on holiday.
Kittens that have been poorly trained by the mother in the nest may develop the habit.
Punishment is not very effective and it must be instantaneous and from afar, so the cat doesn't associate it with you.

Possible cures/prevention

Find the cause of the problem and remove it.
Never rub the cat's nose in the mess. It achieves nothing.
Build up animal's self esteem.
Go back to principles of toilet training.
Feed the cat where it has defaecated
Rehome the cat with someone in a different environment.

6. Toilet training

Kittens are taught by their mothers not to soil their den, so use this principle.
Take the kitten outside on to soil or litter after feeding to encourage elimination.
Put newspaper down where you feed the kitten and gradually extend this "feeding territory" so it will not eliminate there.
Shut off areas where it has started soiling and confine it to approved areas.
Feed the cat where it has eliminated.
Never rub its nose in the mess.
Scratching furniture.
This is partly claw care and has a trimming action.
It's also scent marking from glands in paws.
Used to mark territory.
Done as a dominance gesture, often in presence of other cats.
cats  get cunning and will do it on the beds to avoid reprimand.

Possible cures/prevention

Always be on the watch - think like a cat.
Keep  cats  out when you are out.
Provide a scratching post in house.
Put it in front of the damaged object.
Use a reprimand. It must be instant and from a distance (eg water pistol).
Hitting the cat won't work - don't try it.
Some smell deterrents may work.

7. Attacking other cats

Can vary from the occasional scrap between  cats  in a household, to serious attacks on all  cats  on sight - indoors or outdoors.
This is a natural way to sort out hierarchy and territory.
May be caused by poor social contact between  cats  when young

Possible cures/prevention

Keep aggressive  cats  inside at night.(This will also benefit wildlife).
Reintroduce new  cats  into group gradually in protected cage.
Distraction - bring new  cats  together at feeding time.
Neuter all Toms.
Your vet may recommend hormone treatment for the aggressor.
Euthanasia could be a final option in New Zealand, but take veterinary advice on this. You may be legally liable for any damage your cat causes.
Rehome the cat with someone with cat skills, in a different environment.

8. Attacking people

This is a nasty habit and can be scary and dangerous for the uwary (visitors and kids).
This is usually "play aggression" that gets out of hand.
"Defensive aggression" is caused by poor socialisation.
It may be encouraged by some family members and then others suffer.
It may be "fear aggression" so ignore the cat and allow it escape routes.

Possible cures/prevention

Know the cat's likes and dislikes - and warn guests.
Provide toys and encourage the cat to play with them.
Provide another cat or kitten for it to play with.
Ignore the cat and don't play with it. Tell others of the plan.
Experiment with changing diets.
Don't provide catnip.
Rehome the cat with someone with cat skills, in a different environment.
Euthanasia may be considered necessary in New Zealand, as you are legally liable for damage. But talk to your veterinarian first.

9. Petting and biting syndrome

It's where the cat allows so many strokes then gives a controlled bite or nip.
Three strokes then a bite are typical, or not allowing certain body parts to be touched.
It is often tolerated by the owner so is not cured.
May get worse with age - could be physical problems.
Certain parts of the body are more sensitive than others - the back end.
It often happens in older  cats  and gets worse with age.
Some  cats  will tolerate adults but not children stroking them.
Can't do much. Leave the cat alone and warn others, especially children.

Possible cures/prevention

Recognise the habit and avoid triggering it.
Warn guests or remove cat when they arrive.
But it may make the cat more cunning when biting.
Talk to vet about drugs.
Rehome the cat with someone with cat skills, in a different environment.

10.Over-grooming and self mutilation

cats  regularly groom their flanks or backs when they are confused, or when upset after a threat.
It seems a displacement  behaviour  resulting from anxiety or stress.
It can get out of hand and is difficult to stop.

Possible cures/prevention

Check for any problems of the skin.
Protect the affected skin area - cat will probably shift attention to another.
Check for diet allergies.
Find the cause of the distress and remove it.
Provide toys for stimulation.
Reduce the number of  cats  in the house.
Don't punish the cat for other offences - fix those problems first.
Treat with drugs for anxiety.
There may be no cure if it becomes serious, but take veterinary advice before considering euthanasia.
Rehome the cat with someone with cat skills, in a different environment.

11. Hair ball

This is a problem of long-haired breeds that are not regularly groomed.
This is a very common feature of cats.
It's not a problem until they come into the house from the garden to be sick.
Thought to be a means of assisting digestion.

Possible cures/prevention

Make sure grooming is adequate and the animal is kept clean.

12.Pica

This is the eating or sucking of a wide range of non-nutritional items and can cause health problems.
Sucking and kneading wool items is most common.
It's thought to be need for dietary fibre, a depraved maternal  behaviour  snuggling up to dam's belly or natural trait of prey catching/eating.
It often occurs in  cats  weaned too young.
Severe stress can trigger it.
Poor early socialisation is a likely cause.
Some breeds are worse than others, eg Siamese.

Possible cures/prevention

Provide toys to increase stimulation.
Check diet for fibre.
Try aversion tactics - water pistol, or noise.
Provide favourite fabrics to save others.
Rehome the cat with someone with cat skills, in a different environment.

13. Eating plants

Thought to be a nutritional deficiency.
The cat often knocks the plant over and breaks the pot in the process, adding to the problem.

Possible cures/prevention

Remove the problem materials from cat's environment.
Try different diets
Rehome the cat with someone with cat skills, in a different environment.

14. Thieving

cats  have an inquisitive nature so this habit can be a self gratifying experience.
It can be part of pica syndrome - stealing favourite items to eat.
It's part of the  behaviour  of bringing kill back to the den for the tribe.

Possible cures/prevention

There is little point in chasing it to get it back - you add to the fun.
Try to remove the opportunity for the cat to steal things.
Completely ignore it when it brings items home
Rehome the cat with someone with cat skills, in a different environment.

Cats in modern society - the 5th freedom

Changes are coming in man's relationship with the domestic cat in New Zealand.
We have a love/hate relationship with  cats  as we do with dogs, but  cats  are inherent hunters and it's now being realised the effect their hunting as on our endangered native wildlife - as it has done in Australia.
The average age of a cat in modern society is 3.5 years. Euthanasia is the main cause of death. Thousands of kittens are euthanased each year.
Just about every family in NZ has a pet dog or cat and many have both.  cats  are more popular than dogs and are easier to get and dispose of (legally or illegally).
Hundreds of thousands of  cats  are euthanased each year and Christmas is the peak time for this being the peak kitten season.
The SPCA struggle to get the message across about desexing and "pets are not just for Christmas".
There are now plenty of data now to show how much wildlife the average domestic "moggy" cleans up in a year. It is in the region of 20 birds/year.
DOC in New Zealand are having a big campaign against the cat.
Some people are very upset about this, blaming owners for irresponsible cat care.
There is no  Welfare  code for  cats  but this will be done sometime.
Australia has brought in rules against  cats  in some areas where they must now be confined.
"Keep your cat inside at night" will have to be the catch cry for future.
New Zealand will have to face this in future as public concern and sympathy changes towards our native fauna - the impact of TV is massive. There are changes ahead for the Kiwi moggy with cat-free areas being accepted.
Desexing feral  cats  releasing them back into the environment is a crazy idea.


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